For many, the word Indochina conjures up images of vast colonial estates, foreign correspondents sipping early evening cocktails, and of course, the horror of war, genocide and foreign policy gone wrong. Take time to travel through Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia today however, and you soon come to realize that these are images consigned to the past - the enchanting beauty of all three countries means they are successfully re-establishing themselves as top destinations on the tourist map.

Independent traveling to Vietnam from China couldn’t be easier. Those with a penchant for slow, if relaxing, overland travel can opt for the twice weekly Beijing-Hanoi train, which crosses into Vietnam from Guangxi Province and takes about 48 hours. There is also an international crossing between Yunnan Province and north-west Vietnam which can be reached by bus from Kunming. If you’re not a big fan of train travel then there are regular flights between Beijing and Hanoi, as well as other major destinations across the region.

Hanoi, (literally “city in the bend of a river”), is a firm favorite, with its lakes and parks, red-tiled roofs and ochre walls. Graceful young women in ao dai (Vietnamese national dress) cycle slowly past street side baguette sellers, and old men in black berets shuffle past French colonial facades. Past and present, foreign and traditional – it’s all entwined in daily life like no other Vietnamese city.

For travelers in Hanoi, the area around Hoan Kiem Lake is the place to stay. The lake gets its name from a Vietnamese legend, which states that in the mid-15th century Emperor Ly Thai To received a magical sword from heaven that he used to drive out the Chinese. One day after the war, while out boating on the lake, a giant golden tortoise grabbed the sword and dived to the depths. Since then, the lake has been known as Ho Hoan Kiem (Lake of the Returned Sword). The lake is still supposed to contain tortoises today, although don’t waste too much time peering into the murky water in the hopes of seeing one.

Just north of Hoan Kiem are a range of good value hotels, both budget and more upmarket. From here it’s only a short walk (or cyclo ride) into the bustling, narrow streets of the fascinating Old Quarter, where you can watch artisans at work on the street, pick up tasteful souvenirs, sample some delicious street food (bun cha gio – spring rolls and rice vermicelli recommended), sink a great draft beer (bia hoi) and satisfy any cravings for Western food. The Latin Quarter, also next to the lake, has some great coffee shops.

Less than two hours by coach from Hanoi, awe-inspiring Halong Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Vietnam’s greatest natural marvels. The cheapest way to visit the area is by organized tour from Hanoi, where travel agents and hotels offer similarly priced trips of varying length. An overnight stay on a junk moored in the bay is recommended for spectacular sunset and sunrise views over the water and jagged limestone peaks. Fable has it that the bay was created when an immense dragon plunged to Earth, its mighty tail carving the seabed into thousands of islands. Meandering through the bay’s myriad channels, fjords and inlets in early morning mist makes this story seem a little less far-fetched.

Sapa, located close to the border with China’s Yunnan province in north-west Vietnam, is also one of the country’s must-sees. The easiest way to get there from Hanoi (and back if necessary) is by bus or train (10 hours). Sapa was a French hill station built in 1922, and the area is populated by a range of colorfully and distinctly dressed hill tribes (also known as “montagnards” – mountain people). The area is relatively high, often cold and wet, and usually cloaked in mist, especially in the early morning. Weekend markets in and around Sapa are great places to sample the local way of life, pick up souvenirs and take discrete photos. Depending on your route, it makes sense to make Sapa your first or last destination in Vietnam.

For many people, the landlocked country of Laos, bordering Vietnam to the west, is something of a revelation. If you’re traveling from Hanoi, there are direct buses to Vientiane, the Laotian capital, that take about 24 hours. From China you can also cross the border directly into northern Laos. Bus travel between Vietnam and Laos can be uncomfortable and painfully slow, so consider flying unless you’re on a tight budget or enjoy life in constricted spaces.

Laid back in Laos

It’s not difficult to unwind in Laos – indeed, life in Vietnam seems positively hectic by comparison. Watching the world go by over a strong, sweet cafe lao, tearing lumps out of a fresh paté baguette for breakfast, getting mellow on South East Asia’s finest beer by the banks of the Mekong - Laos is truly a land of rudimentary pleasures. Even charming Vientiane, with its replica Arc de Triomphe, Buddhist temples and minimal traffic seems more like a sleepy provincial town than a capital city.

The best value accommodation in Vientiane is located on the banks of the Mekong in the southern part of the city, along with a range of backpacker restaurants. City highlights include Pha That Luang, a glittering golden stupa 4 km north east of the city centre. This magnificent edifice embodies the rise of Lao sovereignty, as well as the importance of Buddhism in guiding disciples from ignorance to enlightenment. Considered the most important national monument in Laos, legend has it that Indian missionaries erected the first stupa here in the 3rd century B.C. to house Buddha’s breastbone.

No visitor to Laos should miss out on the country’s two premier attractions – Luang Prabang in the north, and Si Phan Don in the very south. If you’ve arrived in Vientiane this means re-tracing your steps in one direction or the other, but it’s worth it. Most people decide to head north first – “VIP” buses to Luang Prabang from Vientiane take about 8 hours.

Luang Prabang, like Halong Bay, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and deservedly so. Buddhist and French colonial buildings jostle for space on a small peninsula by the confluence of the Nam Khan and might Mekong rivers, all encircled by lush, jungle-clad mountains. Most historic temples and sights, as well as guesthouses and restaurants, lie on the spit of land between Phu Si and the Mekong. Check out the night market on Th Phothisalat if you want to sample some tasty Luang Prabang signature dishes.

Heading south from Vientiane, the journey to Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands) takes about fifteen hours, which includes an overnight VIP bus journey, a trip in the back of a sawngthaew (converted pick-up) and a short canoe ride. Never mind if you’re feeling jaded afterwards - Si Phan Don is the ultimate chill out zone. As the name suggests, the area is formed by an expansion of the Mekong, creating an incredibly scenic network of islands and islets, channels and cascades. Tourism is generally centred on the islands of Don Khong, Don Det and Don Khon, all interconnected by canoes with outriggers. Make a beeline for Don Khon to experience Laotian village life at its most authentic, with cheap, if spartan, accommodation, lazy days on the guesthouse verandah, and the occasional fishing trip with your guesthouse owner.

Captivated by Cambodia

Si Phan Don is the gateway to Cambodia. Take a boat or bus trip to the border, and from there head on to the town of Kratie. Here it’s possible to catch fleeting glimpses of the rare and protected Irrawaddy dolphin in its Mekong habitat, before heading on to the Cambodian capital, Phnom Penh.

An enthralling city, Phnom Penh was regarded by many in the 1950s and 60s as the finest city in Indochina - the legacy of French rule can still be seen in some fine colonial architecture. The southern or French district contains the ministries, banks and colonial houses, and the centre is home to narrow lanes, markets, foods stalls and shops. Best accommodation lies along the Tonle Sap waterfront, where budget and luxury establishments both offer attractive river views.

Sights to see in Phnom Penh include the Royal Palace, which is the King’s residence containing the impressive Silver Pagoda. Shopping enthusiasts should meander round the bustling markets of Psar Thmei and Psar Chaa, and the monkeys of Wat Phnom are always great entertainment (bring your own bananas). An inexpensive tuk-tuk tour gives tired feet a rest, allowing passengers the chance to view attractions while sampling some hectic street life.

Buses or boats from Phnom Penh arrive in the town of Siem Reap (five to seven hours), close to the Angkor complex. None of the accommodation here will seriously dent the wallet. Purchasing a $40, three-day Angkor pass is essential – one day is simply not enough. For the energetic, renting a bike is a good way to get around, otherwise tuk-tuks with knowledgeable drivers are on hand to ferry passengers between temple sites. Must-sees include the imposing sculpted faces of Bayon, the majestic Angkor Wat and the decaying, jungle-ensnared stonework of Ta Prohm, all made more dramatic in the half-light of dawn or dusk.

Back in Phnom Penh, those making a leisurely return journey to China can take the slow boat down the Mekong, and across the border to the Vietnamese delta town of Chau Doc. Anyone in need of some beach time should make a detour to the nearby island of Phu Quoc, with its miles of white sandy beaches, good value beachfront bungalows and excellent seafood. An alternative destination for topping up the tan is the idyllic resort of Mui Ne, a few hours north of Saigon by bus, with its deserted, flowing dunes and amiable fishermen.

By now any preconceptions you may have had of South East Asia should have been replaced by fond memories, a rucksack bulging with souvenirs, a sizeable amount of dirty washing and maybe a couple of e-mail addresses. If you still haven’t had your fill of culture, stop off at Hoi An and Hue on the way back to Hanoi, but then that’s another story …

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