Capturing the Caffeine
— Coffee Options in Beijing

Most of us like to let off steam occasionally about Starbucks representing the ugly face of globalization, but how often do we really let ethics get in the way of a foamy cappuccino or creamy latte? I for one was a little disappointed to find a branch of Starbucks inside the Forbidden City on my last visit to the once hallowed home of the Son of Heaven. However, after a fleeting mental battle, I forced myself to go in and partake of a blueberry muffin and a life-giving shot of caffeine in the form of a double espresso.

So, ethical considerations and accusations of double standards aside, what are the options for coffee drinkers in the capital of a country of tea drinkers? Remember, this ain’t Paris or Rome. You can forget about watching life go by in a smoky backstreet café off the Champs Elysees, or sipping an al fresco espresso under a parasol in some cobbled piazza. Nevertheless, this doesn’t mean that Beijingers, be they Chinese or laowai, have to forego all expectations of character and charm, not to mention quality, when it comes to imbibing the black stuff.

With 50-odd outlets in Beijing alone, and expanding in China quicker than you cay say double mocha coconut frappacino, Starbucks is always going to win the battle in terms of location and convenience. However, for those prepared to look a little longer, and travel a little further for their coffee, there are certainly alternatives in Beijing which outperform Starbucks in every department.

For me, Saturday morning coffee drinking is a ritual which I am bound to perform with religious dedication, and to this end I am happy to shell out a few extra yuan to maximize my enjoyment. In fact, come Saturday morning, I would rather sell my grandmother than visit the anodyne world of Starbucks, much less their rivals in blandness SPR and UBC. So, let me recommend to you a little gem I came across while wandering the banks of Houhai Lake a few months ago.

Complete with relaxed waterfront location, comfortable furniture, a great range of coffees (20 – 30 RMB), Bohemian clientele and free wireless internet connection, the Water Nymph Café is a mecca for those who value their coffee-drinking environment as much as their coffee. Those settling in for the long haul will appreciate the great pasta and sandwich selection available (25 – 35 RMB), and the excellent spaghetti deserves a special mention.

Regardless of season, come rain or shine, lie back, enjoy the view, and soak up the atmosphere in style. Let’s all raise our froth-filled cups to the owners for their individuality. And while we’re at it, here’s to not seeing a branch of Starbucks near the Great Wall anytime soon …

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Coffee Scene -